End of Lockdown, almost... Part 11 - South Africa

I think the vast majority of South Africans will agree that despite the curb on personal freedom, five weeks of lockdown has been a necessary restriction to try and protect our population from the impact of COVID-19. And do we have a top notch president or what - good luck to you Mr Ramaphosa, in Cyril we trust!

We have realised that with slightly better planning there is actually no need to go to the shop every few days. The work we have put into our garden is starting to show some results, as the various gardens fill in, and our new bird feeder island is slowly bringing back the vast numbers of sunbrids and weavers that we got used to before we went to India. Speaking of the bird list, we have added 11 new species during the lockdown, including the dazzling Bokmakierie and scarce Forest Buzzard only a few days ago.

In a few days time, we can finally leave the house and take a walk or cycle around the neighbourhood, something we fully intend on doing. However, I really look forward to the day that we can travel a little further, at least as far as the Drakensberg - and perhaps across the border into Lesotho. I love birding the mountains - be it the Drakensberg, Andes, Himalayas, Atlas or Alps. Being so close to us; Meg, Kai and I spend a fair amount of time in the 'berg', add some decent weather and the photographic opportunities can be stunning.

Ground Woodpecker. Giant's Castle, ukhahlamba Drakensberg National Park. 2015.

A high resolution version of this image is available on my Shutterstock page.

Sidestepping Covid-19... Part 10 - Cuba

For as long as most of us have been alive, Cuba has been a tantalising - but unreachable destination. Aside from the diverse birding opportunities - Cuba was to an extent a living history, a country trapped in a time bubble set in the 1950’s. In as little as six years I watched Cuba’s 1950’s automobiles diminish from the de facto form of transport to a mere sideline of tourist interest. Hotels were being erected at break-neck speed to host the impending tourism avalanche. I expected Cuba to become just another Caribbean island, practically inseparable from the rest. The legacies of Jose Marti, Ernesto ‘Che’ Guevara and the brothers Castro quickly eroded by mass commercialism. 

At least - that is what I thought around 4 years ago. The impact of the existing US administration and the current viral infection appears to have put the brakes on this for a while longer. It is a nation of contrasts, history, great people and some awesome birds, not least of which are 4 species of exquisite quail-doves. Another place to go one day Meg!

Blue-headed Quail-Dove. Bermejas, Matanzas, Cuba

Sidestepping Covid-19... Part 9 - China

I had the opportunity to visit China in late 2016 to attend the 7th Asian Bird Festival. As a country I had been intent on visiting for as long as I can remember, the long flight and short turn around were of no concern. Seems odd now, but I had never heard of the city I flew into to start the entire trip - Wuhan. Yes, the very same Wuhan of Covid-19 fame.

The festival itself was great, though it was a week of post festival birding that I was most looking forward to, and specifically for one bird - a male Reeves's Pheasant. Males have the longest natural tail feather of any species, pushing up to 2.4 metres long! The male below had a tail of perhaps 1.5metres long, still spectacular - but seemingly impossible to capture in the same frame as the bird itself. The lighting was crap, the lens not quite good enough and the photographer a little shaky - so I'll need to go back and get better photos one day, with Meg...

Reeves's Pheasant - Dongzhai NNR, Henan Province, China. 2016.

Sidestepping Covid-19... Part 8 - Mexico

By the time I arrived in Mexico for the last of my long string of tours through South America, Central America and the Caribbean, I had seen close to 2000 species of bird in a matter of 5 months. However, far from being tired - I was very much looking forward to a week traveling around the Yucatan digging up as many of the specialities as possible. There were some long travel days, and the birds didn't always play ball - but we did find almost all the sought after species including the spectacular Ocellated Turkey. I had seen these a year before in Guatemala, where they roam about the Mayan ruins of Tikal fairly oblivious to humans. I didn't possess a decent camera or lens to do the birds justice back then, but by the time a small flock walked into the middle of the road in Calakmul - I had something reasonable to hand. Being the middle of breeding season, the males weren't too bothered by much, so long as the ladies were in sight.

Ocellated Turkey - Calakmul Biosphere Reserve, Campeche, Mexico. 2015.

A high resolution version of a similar image is available on my Shutterstock page.

Sidestepping Covid-19... Part 7 - Colombia

Shortly after meeting Meg and Kai, I said goodbye and headed off to South and Central America for 5 and half months. The first destination on my list was Colombia, where I would spend just over 6 weeks. It simply isn't possible to select the 'best' species or images when you are seeing on average 20 new species every day! Like with any Andean birding adventure - you are going to see a lot of Tanagers and Hummingbirds, perhaps even some Antpittas. Oddly, it has taken until my 7th post to publish a member of my favourite family, the Antpittas. Thanks to time, dedication and care - a number of feeding stations have been established across Colombia allowing birders the chance to see some of these generally agoraphobic creatures. Whilst I enjoy the challenge of finding these birds away from feeders, some are quite simply skittish ghosts - such as this Bicolored Antpitta, which even at a feeding station gives you little more than a few seconds. I really want to see this one again Meg...

Bicolored Antpitta, Rio Blanco, Colombia. 2014.

Sidestepping Covid-19... Part 6 - India

Today's image is from India, and yes - I could have picked from a number of gaudy options. Alas, as my two favourite birding families in the world are Antpittas and Larks, you can expect to be blown away by browns and beiges. Indeed, my main reason for this specific image isn't just that it is a lark, but that it was also my first lifer of 2020 (only 5 in total so far). Since it appears unlikely I am going to get many, if any more lifers this year - the significance is somewhat greater.

Sykes's Lark, Dholpur, Rajasthan. 2020.

A high resolution version of this image is available on my Shutterstock page.

Sidestepping Covid-19... Part 5 - Puerto Rico

Continuing with the Caribbean thread - I have been to the Caribbean a number of times, visiting Cuba, Jamaica and the Dominican Republic on at least three occasions. I had seen all the available extant endemics and near endemics (ie: Cuban Kite and Zapata Rail don't make the list as they are either very rare and isolated, or a complete enigma). However, I had failed to visit Puerto Rico - and consequently my Greater Antillean puzzle was a piece short. I had been scheduled to lead a tour to the island in 2015, but limited client interest meant that if I was to go - I would have to do so myself.

I spent all of 6 days in Puerto Rico, racing about twitching every island endemic - spending most nights sleeping in the back of the car. The bird I wanted the most was Puerto Rican Tody. The Tody's are a small family of 5 species endemic to the Caribbean. These tiny colourful jewels - related to kingfishers can be surprisingly confiding when you find them (in Old World terms, they behave somewhat similarly to Batises). Near enough the very first bird I saw on the island was indeed my last Tody, alongside a hatful of other endemics at Camberlache State Forest.

Puerto Rican Today, Camberlache, Puerto Rico. 2015.

A high resolution version of this image is available on my Shutterstock page.

Sidestepping Covid-19... Part 4 - Jamaica

In the last quarter of 2014, I headed off for a long stretch of tours to the Americas - nearly 6 months in all. Part of this time was spent in the Caribbean, visiting the 4 major Greater Antillean islands of Cuba, Hispaniola (Dominican Republic), Puerto Rico and Jamaica. All these islands have at least one endemic species of Hummingbird, some of which are rather significant due to their size - the Bee Hummingbird of Cuba being the smallest bird in the world, whilst the Vervain Hummingbird of Jamaica and Hispaniola being the second smallest bird in the world. Both are aptly described as cute, but aside from the male Bee Hummingbird - they don't really tick the attractive box. In a family of almost 360 species, many of whom are exquisitely coloured - differentiation is difficult! I have always been drawn to the small number of species that possess long, or adorned tails. In Jamaica - you need only travel a few miles to see two! What the locals call the 'Doctor Bird' - we know as Red-billed and Black-billed Streamertails.

One day Meg...

Black-billed Streamertail, Port Antonio, Jamaica. 2015.

Red-billed Streamertail, Blue Mountains, Jamaica. 2014.

Sidestepping Covid-19... Part 3 - Morocco

To date, the 2017 winter tour of Morocco is the last Rockjumper tour that I worked on as a Tour Leader (I co-led with Mark Beevers). Since then, I have remained firmly ensconced behind a desk - a mostly self-inflicted predicament. Poor Meg and Kai only got a vicarious look at this fascinating, culturally rich country that abounds with cool larks, the critical endangered Northern Bald Ibis and large flocks of various sandgrouse.

I spent a night pre-tour in the High Atlas enjoying the falling snow, only to come seriously close to getting stuck in Oukaimeden in my little rental and missing the start of the tour... As it happened, Mark and I spent 11 days hoovering up nearly every possible bird special, nailing stunning views of Aoudad (Barbary Sheep) and consuming a good deal of Tagine and Couscous.

Sorry my lovely ladies - I'll take you both to Morocco one day...

Greater Hoopoe-Lark, Merzouga, Morocco. 2017.

A high resolution version of this image is available on my Shutterstock page.

Sidestepping Covid-19... Part 2 - Paraguay

Having skipped Paraguay and the grand chaco traverse into Bolivia during my cycling tour of South America - I had always been very keen to head back and tick the 'other' landlocked country of the continent. A few weeks before setting off, I had become acquainted with Rockjumper's newest recruit (Meg). To say that Meg was a birding neophyte at the time would have been an understatement, but she entertained my bird focused ramblings - even though I neglected to consider the time zone differences. Chaco Owl kept me awake for a number of nights, with only the odd road side flushed sighting. After yet another night without much luck, I arrived at the lodge late with all the intention of some sleep - only to have that thought dashed with the distinctive sound of a Chaco Owl calling nearby. A very accommodating individual gave me prolonged views and numerous photo opportunities, something I was very keen to share with Meg - who had also waited up late to share in a vicarious sighting.

Chaco Owl. Filadelfia, Paraguay. 2014.